Inca Textiles

During the Inca Empire, the people of the Andes used alpaca wool for so many textiles, alpacas themselves became a popular currency. Discover what the ancient Incas wore, how their clothes were made, and the hidden symbolism of Inca garments.

What Did The Incas Wear?

Many Inca wore lliclla: woven, square, double-sided clothes that were easily folded into a cape or shawl. A bigger square could also be readily folded and stitched into a men’s tunic and uncu, a knee-length covering.

Inca royals wore additional, loose outerwear shawls called yacollas.

Women wore colorful wool jackets called jobona, often with color-coordinating hats (monteras). They also wore strong, practical q’ero chumpi: woven belts that can unfurl to carry goods, swaddle a baby, and support the wearer’s lower back.

Chumpi belts are still popular accessories among Andean people today.

What Is Inca Clothing Made Of?

At times, the Inca sourced cotton from the Peruvian lowlands to make garments. Royal Inca often kept aclla: young women sequestered in the palace who wove tapestries of superfine cotton threads called cumbi.

More commonly, clothes worn in the Inca Empire were woven from wool. Soft vicuña wool was used for luxury fabrics, alpaca wools were woven into qunpi (garments for non-royal men who were still wealthy and high-class), and other sheep and llama wools were used for chusi and awasca (everyday fabrics).

Understanding Inca Textile Patterns

In the era of Tahuantinsuyu, Inca clothes and fabrics incorporated symbolic motifs called “Topacu.”

Topacu comprised a visual “language” of sorts, with different symbols and patterns communicating important information about the wearer’s identity (particularly their ancestry), their hometown or community of origin, and their role in society.

Many Topacu patterns and motifs held additional religious and astrological meanings, particularly those worn by priests and Incan royalty.

Today, the Quechua of the Andes—modern descendants of the Inca—incorporate traditional patterns and designs into their clothes. However, while some of their patterns’ meanings align with Topacu symbolism, the Quechua system is distinct and unique to their culture.

Beyond the Topacu, the Inca and their descendants use specific fabric and textile techniques to convey more concrete information. For example, quipu is a traditional Andean system of knotted cords. Different arrangements of knots keep records, describe historical events, and even tell culturally important stories.

What Does The Checkerboard Pattern On An Inca Textile Indicate About the Person Wearing It?

In the Inca Empire, a checkerboard pattern on clothing usually meant the wearer was in the Inca military. Specific male tunics with checkerboard motifs were highly military-coded.

In the Metropolitan Museum of Art, one such garment is preserved. The art historians note, “in 1532 by Francisco de Jerez, secretary to the conquistador Francisco Pizarro….described the meeting between Atahualpa, the Inca emperor, and Pizarro’s men in Cajamarca, Peru, noting that the first regiment of the Inca army wore checkerboard livery.”

In large groups of soldiers, the pattern caused a visual effect, making an approaching army look like a surreal, interchangeable mass charging forward.

Certain Inca warriors wore additional, diamond-shaped clothes, often bearing a perpendicular checkerboard pattern. These indicated incredible strength, prowess, or military victory.

Experience Inca Textiles In Peru With Caravan

Discover the beauty and culture of the Andes on Caravan’s 8-Day Tour of Peru With Machu Picchu.

The trip bundles lodging at tranquil retreats and luxury hotels in the majestic Andes mountains; immersive cultural experiences, including authentic, indigenous Peruvian meals; and a chance to step into the past when you explore ancient ruins of the Inca Kingdom—all at one affordable price.

Want to book a spot? Call our team toll-free at 1-800-227-2826. Or, call +1-312-321-9800 to learn more.